Melasma

What is it?

Melasma is a common skin condition characterized by brown or gray-brown patches on the face, particularly on the cheeks, forehead, nose, and chin.

It's important to understand that once you have melasma or are prone to pigmentation, this is some thing that doesn't fully ever go away even if you don't see it anymore and we have healed the skin whether you have had laser treatments, chemical peels, or topical products worked great for you or it went away after pregnancy or nursing. This is still something that your skin is prone too, so it's important that you always protect it so it doesn't come back in the future.

The primary causes include:

1. Sun Exposure: Ultraviolet (UV) light from the sun stimulates melanin production in the skin, exacerbating melasma.

2. Hormonal Changes: Hormonal fluctuations, especially during pregnancy (chloasma or "mask of pregnancy") or with the use of birth control pills and hormone replacement therapy.

3. Genetics: A family history of melasma may increase susceptibility.

4. Medications: Certain drugs, such as oral contraceptives, can trigger melasma.

5. Skin Irritation: Skin care products or treatments that irritate the skin can worsen melasma.

The Difference Between Sun Damage and Melasma

- Sun Damage: Typically presents as uneven skin tone, dark spots, and wrinkles due to prolonged exposure to UV radiation. It often results in a more generalized darkening of the skin rather than specific patches.

  

- Melasma: Characterized by well-defined, symmetrical patches of dark pigmentation, primarily on the face. Melasma is often related to hormonal changes and may not be as influenced by sun exposure alone.

Products for Melasma

1. Glymed Plus Brilliant Tone: Linked here

   - Best for: Stubborn pigmentation and sensitive skin.

   - Key Ingredients: Contains ingredients like niacinamide (a form of vitamin B3 known for its brightening effects), which helps in reducing pigmentation and improving skin texture.

2. Brightalive by ZO Skin Health:

   - Best for: Users of the ZO Skin Health line, as it integrates well with other products from the brand.

   - Key Ingredients: Includes brightening agents such as hexylresorcinol and phenylethyl resorcinol, which help reduce pigmentation and even out skin tone.

3. Alastin A-Luminate: Linked here

   - Best for: Those who have tried various treatments without success and seek a glowing complexion.

   - Key Ingredients: Features ingredients like niacinamide and a unique blend of botanicals to target pigmentation and improve skin radiance.

4. Eventone by Skinbetter:

   - Best for: Red and brown pigmentation (PIE and PIH).

   - Key Ingredients: Contains a mix of brightening agents and soothing ingredients that address both post-inflammatory erythema (PIE) and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

PIE vs PIH

- Post-Inflammatory Erythema (PIE): Red or pink discoloration that remains after an inflammatory skin condition heals. It results from increased blood flow to the area and is often seen in sensitive skin conditions.

- Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH): Dark spots or patches that appear after the skin has healed from inflammation or injury. PIH occurs due to excess melanin production in the affected area.

Tyrosinase Inhibitor

A tyrosinase inhibitor is a type of ingredient that works by blocking the enzyme tyrosinase, which plays a crucial role in the production of melanin (the pigment responsible for skin color). By inhibiting this enzyme, these products help reduce melanin production and lighten hyperpigmented areas of the skin.

Highlighted Ingredients in Mentioned Products

- Glymed Plus Brilliant Tone: Niacinamide, Kojic Acid, L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C),Lactic Acid

- Brightalive by ZO Skin Health: Tranexamic Acid, Niacinamide,Papain, Beta glucan, licorice derivative

- Alastin A-Luminate: Tranexamic Acid, Niacinamide, antioxidants

- Eventone by Skinbetter: Diglucosyl Gallic Acid,Hexylresorcinol,Acetyl Glycyl Beta-AlanineAlpha-Arbutin, Kakadu Plum Extract

These products and ingredients work synergistically to address different aspects of pigmentation and skin health, making them suitable for managing melasma and related skin issues.

Types of melasma

  • There are three different types of melasma and each is characterised by the depth of the pigment. The types include:

    • Epidermal – has a dark brown colour, a well-defined border, appears obvious under black light and sometimes responds well to treatment

    • Dermal – a light brown or bluish colour, a blurry border, appears no different under black light and doesn’t respond well to treatment.

    • Mixed melasma – the most common and has bluish and brown patches, it shows a mixed pattern under black light and shows some response to treatment.


    How to treat melasma?

    Despite not having any other symptoms, dermatologists can usually diagnose melasma by looking at it. The best form of treatment for melasma is to start applying an SPF every day. New melasma patches may clear up on their own without SPF but wearing sunblock will help to protect your skin from the sun and prevent sun damage. If melasma doesn’t clear on its own, a topical cream may be used.

    For more severe cases, a peel, hydra facial or a laser such as moxi can help to reduce uneven pigmentation. These professional treatments tend to be effective in treating cases where a topical cream does not perform well. I recommend starting off with topicals mentions above to prep the skin for any facial or laser treatment.

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